Installing cd player in boat

For many, the most daunting part of any stereo installation is routing the wires and cabling. Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and bends. Those made of tempered wire are commonly used, although newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials are also popular. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Receive our Newsletter.

Atlantic U. Created by Fuelthemes. Stereo receiver When choosing a stereo to install on your boat, you need to consider both the unit and mounting options. Back in the day, stereos on your boat took up a lot more space. Speakers Speakers will either be flush mounted or box speakers, both of which have their own set of pros and cons. Speaker position When planning to install a stereo on your boat, keep in mind that speakers are directional, meaning they project sound in the direction they are pointed.

Make sure your speakers are angled so that the music is possible to hear. Cable Pulling When pulling wire or coax, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to reduce friction. This approach puts less stress on the wire while reducing the chances of tears or damage to insulation or wiring. I have all of mine hooked up and have never had a problem draining my battery.

If I plan on going more than a month or so without using the boat I'll just disconnect the battery. I was under the impression that it would eventually run my battery all the way down being as it is always draining power from it, I have two 12 volts ran together with about a total of amp hours between the both of them with a charger hooked to it.

So since now learning that it doesnt really drain that much then I would rather hook it up the proper way, so I run the memory and the power to the battery or the "Power station" inside my helm?

My depth finder is hooked up through this power strip and I have no problem with it, as the strip is connected to the battery and everything runs off of it, so I should be able to run the back up memory and the power to one side of the strip and ground the other and thats it? Re: CD player install 5 Post by brumbyvet. Very important.

I only have one battery. It was purchased for the boat just before I purchased it. I have no idea off the top of my head what the stats are for the battery, I just know that I've gone many weeks to a month with it hooked up this way and the motor cranks off no problem every time.

I did disconnect the battery during the Nov. Disclaimer: I am not an electrician, battery expert, or master electronics installer. Carry on at your own risk. I got a pioneer regular CD player because it was on sale for 70 dollars. I have a outside cover for it and it is inside the helm so I couldnt see it getting wet. Re: CD player install 8 Post by walter » Thu Mar 24, am Let me throw you a curve ball and you can thank me later It wont be long before a cd player is like an 8-track player.

Collinsville, IL. Boat on Ky Lake. There are others that you may or may not have like a dimming wire that usually don't need to be hooked up to anything or can be hooked straight to power. I hope this helps. Check any of the big electronic stores; they probably have it.

I tied about 3 feet of speaker wire into the antenna wire and hid it under the deck - no problems as long as I'm not looking for AM. Contact your local Kenwood dealer and get a power plug for your model. The RCA jacks and antenna jack should be self explanatory. Even with the plug adapter, you'll still have to hard wire everything so I'd just skip it. The other option is to cut off the plug and wire it up to your system, which isn't particularly difficult.

The speaker wires are the standard for this type of radio and all the speaker grounds have a black tracer a black line on the wire ; white front left , gray front right , green rear left , purple rear right. The black tracer wires go on the - side of each speaker. The black wire is the ground negative side of the battery.

The yellow wire is one of the "hot" feeds, which typically bypasses the ignition switch so the clock will work while the boat is turned off. The red wire is the hot feed for the unit and generally is down stream of the ignition switch, so it'll get turned on when the boat is on. There are four other wires too. The blue wire is for a retractable antenna yep, a motorized antenna. It's all in your instruction booklet, but you'll find the wiring is the same as most radios built in the 15 years.

Just cut the plug off and start crimping on the stuff you'll need. You don't need much more then the ground, the red feed, antenna if you want radio and speakers. Tape off the remaining wires so they don't bang around and short something out, then you're go to go. Or your could use the RCA's and save the trouble of crimping up the speaker leads.