Rotunda special service tool 303 1203

Spark Plug Removal Procedure 1. Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air. A minimum period of 15 minutes of soak time is required. The cleaner will wick down to the ground electrode shield and soften the carbon deposits in this time. Do not work the spark plug back and forth at this point.

Advertisement Caution: Excessive Motorcraft carburetor tune-up cleaner, or repeating the process several times with too much cleaner fluid, could introduce enough liquid volume to hydro-lock the engine. Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug, working the plug back and forth. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed.

The expected removal torque is about 33 lb. Repeat the back and forth turning as needed until turning effort is reduced, and remove the spark plugs. Refer to the appropriate removal procedure as required. See Figure 2. Mode 1 Procedure: Use Rotunda special service tool to remove an empty ground electrode shield from the cylinder head.

Note: This tool is only designed to work with an empty ground electrode shield. If porcelain remains, proceed to Mode 2 or 3 removal. Use the installation rod provided with service tool update to install the modified vacuum cap.

Push the cap into the ground shield down to the electrode strap. This will plug and protect the combustion chamber from contamination. Thread-tap the ground electrode shield using a 9. Coat the end of the tap with general-purpose grease.

Turn the tap about three to four turns into the ground electrode shield. Back the tap up frequently to break chips and avoid cut material from coiling-up in the spark plug well. Advertisement Caution: Do not attempt to remove the ground electrode shield with the tap and wrench.

The tap may break if this is attempted. Thread Rotunda special service tool into the ground electrode shield. See Figure 3. Install the stepped end of the tool pilot bushing into the spark plug well ensuring it bottoms out. Screw the center shank into the ground electrode shield. Do not over tighten the shank, to prevent thread stripping.

Install the nylon washer and jack nut until finger tight. Turn the jack nut until the ground electrode is freed from the cavity and withdraw the tool assembly. Advertisement Mode 2 Procedure: 1. Using long-nose pliers, grasp and remove the porcelain with an up and down motion taking care not to fracture the porcelain.

Refer to Mode 1 Procedure to remove the remaining ground electrode shield from the cylinder head. Each one broke, even following the TSB to the letter. In the end i got them all out, but I do have some ideas for consideration for the next person.

First, The ceramic pusher said there is no guessing as to how far to push the ceramic down because of the electrode strap, when I went too far, it actually pushed the ceramic through the electrode strap. If you hear a snap when doing this, stop and proceed to the removal tool. It probably was the electrode strap breaking and you don't want to go further.

Second, make sure the removal tools threads are not stripped and are in really good shape. I rented one from a local shop and two of the threads were stripped the first two that would start to bite. I was able to get 7 of the plugs out with it and then the last one wouldn't go. I went back to the shop and got their other tool, which worked great because it was brand new. If you rent - a great option OReilly Auto - dollar deposit for 2 days and you get a full refund upon return make sure the tool is in great shape.

Third, make sure you have extensions, 1", 2" and 3" if possible because the back plugs are tough to get to. Take of the air cleaner box the part that holds the air filter and the attached air tubes because it gives you a lot more access. Finally, plan on a good amount of time, at least a full day, just in case.

I tried to work 2 plugs at a time and it seemed to go well for me that way. The last lesson I learned was that if there is concern about something very small falling into the cylinder, you can start the engine without the plug in it and it should kick out any contaminants in the cylinder. I found this on a forum. It worked for one of the cylinders that I was concerned about some dirt getting into and I think it worked. I'm not a pro, just a very amateur DIY'er, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt and good luck.

I've put about miles on my truck since and it hasn't blown up! It's not worth dollars to bring it in. The removal tool is great and VERY easy to use and not intimidating at all for a new amateur mechanic. Brian is correct there are many shortcuts but I wanted everyone to have the exact procedure from Ford.

You don't have to remove fuel rail on these motor. They come out at angle. Just take bolt lose and they pull right out. I just wish the plugs were that easy!! I haven't had the pleasure of servicing a 3 valve Ford yet but now I know where to look if I do.

Very good info and I linked it from my article. Good write up. Did a spark plug replacement on a 4. Owner thought his engine had the SP problem so he thought my job quote was dirt cheap. Found out about the SP problem later on the internet and that dealers didn't want to do the job. Problem with these Ford engines is the coil pack electrodes corrode causing misfire and the check engine light to go on!

Also, I have to remove the fuel rail to get to the coil packs to get to the plugs? I'll keep my jobs on Toyota's and Honda's. This is all good info and I just wanted to add that I also begun introducing the combustion chamber cleaner through the intake while the engine is running to wet the bottom of the plug prior to backing them out to allow the cleaner to penetrate from the top as well.

I have broke a few even with these precations but with these steps in place the removal of the shell is eased a bit due to the cleaner being present and aiding to the softening of the deposits causing the interference that causes the plug to fail during removal.

One added note; do not forget to coat the new plugs with the anti seize compound listed in the event it comes back around to your bay for a later plug change. Changed ALL plugs without one break. Personal Finance. Please review the updated Terms and Conditions of Sale and accept changes. Click here to accept Terms and Conditions of Sale. Click "Accept" to proceed or click "Cancel" to close the web page.

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